Whitewashed cottages, hidden coves and one of the most up-and-down stretches of the North Cornwall coast – a short walk that feels much bigger.
Port Isaac is one of the best-loved fishing villages in Cornwall – a tight huddle of slate-hung and whitewashed cottages around a working harbour, familiar to millions as “Portwenn” in the ITV series Doc Martin. Just along the coast to the west, the tiny inlet of Port Quin is almost deserted, its handful of cottages now largely cared for by the National Trust.
The coast path between the two is only about three miles, but it climbs in and out of a string of little coves and headlands – Lobber Point, Pine Haven, Varley Head and Kellan Head – making it one of the most energetic short walks in the county. The return is gentler, across farmland past Roscarrock.
Walk at a glance
- Distance
- Main walk about 5 miles (allow 2½–3 hrs)
Detour to Doyden Castle adds about ½ mile
Short circuit via Pine Haven about 2¼ miles (about 1¼ hrs) - Grade
- Strenuous – many short, very steep climbs and descents with steps
- Map
- OS Explorer 106 – Newquay & Padstow
- Start
- New Road car park, Port Isaac PL29 3SB
- Terrain
- Narrow clifftop coast path with steps, fields with stone stiles, farm tracks and village streets
Parking
Cornwall Council pay and display car park on New Road at the top of Port Isaac (PL29 3SB), on the coast path. A larger main car park on the edge of the village has designated disabled bays. The streets in the lower village are very narrow – do not try to drive down to the harbour. Port Quin has only a small National Trust car park.
Facilities
Pubs, cafés and shops in Port Isaac, including the Golden Lion on Fore Street. At Port Quin there is only a small seasonal National Trust refreshment kiosk (The Salt Shed, usually April to October) and no toilets; mobile phone signal there is poor.
Disabled access
This walk is not suitable for wheelchairs or anyone with limited mobility – the coast path is a constant series of steep steps and climbs close to unfenced cliff edges, and the return crosses several stone stiles. Port Isaac itself is very steep, with narrow streets down to the harbour; the car parks are at the top of the village. At Port Quin the National Trust car park is right beside the cove, so the view of the inlet and Doyden Castle can be enjoyed with very little walking.
Places to stay
The route
Numbers in circles match the points on the route map and the waypoint table below. Distances are approximate and measured between points.
Main walk – Port Isaac, Pine Haven, Kellan Head, Port Quin and Roscarrock (about 5 miles)
Down through Port Isaac to the harbour
Leave the New Road car park and turn left, following New Road downhill into the village – this is the line of the South West Coast Path, with the sea on your right. Continue down through the narrow streets to the head of the harbour at the Platt, beside the lifeboat station. There are no pavements in the lower village and delivery vehicles squeeze through, so keep to the side and take care.
Point 2: The Platt and lifeboat station, Port Isaac harbour – 50.59220, -4.83139 (SW 99692 80769)
Up Roscarrock Hill
Cross the head of the harbour and bear right up Roscarrock Hill, the steep lane climbing the west side of the harbour. You pass the cottage used as Doc Martin’s surgery in the TV series, and the Victorian Sunday school building, with ever better views back over the harbour and the village.
Point 3: Roscarrock Hill, above the west side of the harbour – 50.59222, -4.83357 (SW 99538 80777)
Out to Lobber Point
At the top end of Roscarrock Hill the lane gives out; follow the acorn waymarks right onto the cliff path signed for Port Quin. The path climbs round Lobber Point, the headland guarding the west side of Port Isaac Bay, with a fine view back to the harbour and east along the coast towards Tintagel. From here on the cliff edges are mostly unfenced – keep children and dogs close.
Point 4: Lobber Point – 50.59544, -4.83543 (SW 9942 8114)
Down to Pine Haven
Continue west along the cliffs, then drop steeply into the little valley at Pine Haven, a rocky inlet with a small waterfall. Near the valley bottom a wooden coast path signpost points on to Port Quin, about 2 miles away – and they are hard miles. A path also heads inland up the valley here (see the short circuit below).
Point 5: Pine Haven – coast path signpost – 50.59303, -4.84193 (SW 9895 8089)
Varley Head
Climb the long, steep flight of steps up the far side of Pine Haven and follow the path north-west onto Varley Head. Pause here to look back over Lobber Point and Port Isaac.
Point 6: Varley Head – 50.59773, -4.84829 (SW 9852 8143)
Greengarden Cove, Scarnor Point and Downgate Cove
The next stretch is a true switchback. The path dips above Greengarden Cove, swings out round Scarnor Point – look out for the prehistoric burial mound on the headland – then drops steeply towards Downgate Cove before climbing out again onto Kellan Head. Keep to the waymarked path; it runs very close to unfenced drops in places.
Point 7: Kellan Head – 50.59469, -4.86972 (SW 969 811 (approx.))
Kellan Head and down to Port Quin
From Kellan Head, where a bench looks back over Downgate Cove, the path turns south with views across Port Quin Bay to The Rumps and Pentire Point, and across the inlet to Doyden Castle. Follow the winding path down above the inlet and descend the steps between two cottages to the lane at Port Quin, beside the slipway and the small National Trust car park. (For the Doyden Castle detour see below.)
Point 8: Port Quin – National Trust car park (PL29 3SU) – 50.58904, -4.86719 (SW 9714 8051)
Inland from Port Quin
Walk up the lane away from the cove (the car park on your right as you start). Take the first public footpath on the left, signed for Port Isaac by the inland route, which passes in front of a cottage. Continue straight ahead on a well-used path with a hedge on your right, then across a second field to join a clear farm track. Follow the track east for about 1 km (⅔ mile), crossing several Cornish stone stiles on the way. Keep dogs on a lead – there is often livestock in these fields.
Point 9: Roscarrock farm track – 50.59113, -4.84619 (SW 986 806 (approx.))
Past Roscarrock to the Pine Haven valley
Where the track turns sharp right towards Roscarrock – a Grade I listed medieval manor house, now a private farm (please keep to the path) – leave it and go straight on along a field path with the hedge on your left. The path drops into the wooded valley above Pine Haven; cross the footbridge over the stream, turn left, then bear half right up the path through the trees, bright with bluebells in spring.
Point 11: Wooded path above Pine Haven (footpath 537/16/2) – 50.58982, -4.84089 (SW 9901 8053)
Up to Roscarrock Hill
Climb the hillside to a stile in the hedge. Cross it and follow the left-hand side of the field on a clear path, through a gate and out onto the lane at the top of Roscarrock Hill. Turn right and walk down the lane towards the harbour.
Point 3: Roscarrock Hill, above the west side of the harbour – 50.59222, -4.83357 (SW 99538 80777)
Back to the car park
Walk down Roscarrock Hill to the harbour, then retrace your steps up through the village to New Road and the car park – or finish with a well-earned stop at one of Port Isaac’s pubs and cafés on the way.
Point 1: New Road car park, Port Isaac (PL29 3SB) – 50.59460, -4.82810 (SW 99935 81027)
Option Detour to Doyden Castle (adds about ½ mile)
Follow the main walk to Port Quin (end of step 7), then:
Out to Doyden Point
Cross the head of the cove and follow the coast path (signed towards Lundy Bay and Polzeath) up the west side of the inlet onto Doyden Point, where the little battlemented folly of Doyden Castle stands on the headland. It was built around 1830 and is now a National Trust holiday cottage, so view it from the path. The headland drops sheer to the sea on three sides. Return the same way to Port Quin and continue from step 8.
Point A1: Doyden Castle, Doyden Point – 50.58934, -4.87323 (SW 96719 80565)
Option Short circuit via Pine Haven (about 2¼ miles)
Follow the main walk to the signpost at Pine Haven (step 4), then:
Up the Pine Haven valley
Instead of climbing the steps to Varley Head, turn inland on the path up the Pine Haven valley towards the woodland. Where the path divides near the footbridge, do not cross the stream; bear left (east) up the path through the trees.
Point 11: Wooded path above Pine Haven (footpath 537/16/2) – 50.58982, -4.84089 (SW 9901 8053)
Back to Port Isaac
Climb to the stile in the hedge and follow the main walk from step 10 back over the field to Roscarrock Hill, down to the harbour and up to the car park.
Point 1: New Road car park, Port Isaac (PL29 3SB) – 50.59460, -4.82810 (SW 99935 81027)
All information is given in good faith and for guidance only. Always carry the OS map and check the South West Coast Path website for diversions.
Highlights along the way
Port Isaac harbour
A working fishing harbour with narrow “opes”, old fish cellars and slate-hung cottages.
Pine Haven
A tiny wooded valley and cove on the coast path, full of bluebells in spring.
Port Quin
A remote, almost deserted inlet cared for by the National Trust, with a legend of lost fishermen.
Doyden Castle
A little castellated folly on the headland above Port Quin, built around 1830.
Nearby
Beaches
Places to visit
Towns & villages
Photos
Route map and waypoints
Latitude and longitude (WGS84, as used by phones and sat-navs) with OS grid references. The markers show key points only – follow the waymarked paths between them.
| Point | Place | Lat, long | Grid ref |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | New Road car park, Port Isaac (PL29 3SB) | 50.59460, -4.82810 map | SW 99935 81027 |
| 2 | The Platt and lifeboat station, Port Isaac harbour | 50.59220, -4.83139 map | SW 99692 80769 |
| 3 | Roscarrock Hill, above the west side of the harbour | 50.59222, -4.83357 map | SW 99538 80777 |
| 4 | Lobber Point | 50.59544, -4.83543 map | SW 9942 8114 |
| 5 | Pine Haven – coast path signpost | 50.59303, -4.84193 map | SW 9895 8089 |
| 6 | Varley Head | 50.59773, -4.84829 map | SW 9852 8143 |
| 7 | Kellan Head | 50.59469, -4.86972 map | SW 969 811 (approx.) |
| 8 | Port Quin – National Trust car park (PL29 3SU) | 50.58904, -4.86719 map | SW 9714 8051 |
| 9 | Roscarrock farm track | 50.59113, -4.84619 map | SW 986 806 (approx.) |
| 10 | Field path above the Pine Haven valley | 50.59011, -4.84373 map | SW 9881 8057 |
| 11 | Wooded path above Pine Haven (footpath 537/16/2) | 50.58982, -4.84089 map | SW 9901 8053 |
| 12 | Stile in the hedge above Port Isaac | 50.59188, -4.83762 map | SW 992 807 |
| A1 | Doyden Castle, Doyden Point | 50.58934, -4.87323 map | SW 96719 80565 |
Before you set out
Carry the OS map – paths and signs can change and mobile signal is patchy.
Check the weather and tide times before you set out.
Keep to the path and well back from cliff edges.
Keep dogs under close control near livestock and cliffs.