Holidays in Padstow, North Cornwall – Harbour, Camel Estuary & Beaches

HOLIDAYS IN PADSTOW

Padstow is a working fishing port and one of Cornwall’s best-loved harbour towns, set on the west bank of the Camel estuary a few miles from the open Atlantic. Its sheltered harbour, crowded with fishing boats, yachts and pleasure craft, is the heart of the town, and around it a tangle of narrow streets climbs the hillside, lined with old stone cottages, galleries, gift shops, delis, bakeries and pubs.

Over the last few decades Padstow has also become one of Britain’s best-known food destinations. Rick Stein opened his Seafood Restaurant on the quay in 1975, and the town is now home to several of his restaurants and shops, alongside Michelin-starred cooking from Paul Ainsworth and a wide choice of cafés, pasty shops and fish and chip shops – earning it the affectionate nickname “Padstein”.

The estuary itself is the town’s great playground. The Black Tor Ferry crosses to Rock all year round, boat trips head out past the Doom Bar into Padstow Bay, and the Camel Trail – one of the most popular cycle routes in the country – starts right beside the harbour and follows the river inland to Wadebridge and Bodmin.

Padstow is an ancient place, too. St Petroc founded a monastery here around 1,500 years ago, the town’s name means “Petroc’s Place”, and every May Day the streets fill with music and dancing for the famous ’Obby ’Oss festival, one of the oldest surviving folk customs in Britain. Above the town, the Elizabethan mansion of Prideaux Place has been home to the same family since 1592.

Beyond the town, the coast path leads north past sandy coves to Stepper Point and round to Trevone, while a short drive west brings you to the surf beaches of Harlyn, Constantine and Treyarnon. Across the water lie Rock, Daymer Bay and Polzeath, and Port Isaac, Tintagel and Bodmin Moor are all within an easy drive.

Padstow is busiest in the school summer holidays and around May Day, when parking fills early. Spring, early summer and autumn are quieter times to enjoy the harbour, the Camel Trail and the coast path. Holiday accommodation ranges from harbourside cottages and apartments to hotels, B&Bs, holiday parks and campsites in the surrounding countryside – see self-catering in Padstow and all holiday accommodation in Padstow.

The old town is a pleasure to wander. Narrow lanes lead uphill from the quays past whitewashed and slate-hung cottages, tucked-away courtyards and the old Market Place, and almost every corner hides a gallery, a craft shop, a bookshop or a deli. Down on the harbour, the quaysides are a stage for everyday life – fishermen landing crab and lobster, boats coming and going with the tide, and children crabbing from the harbour wall.

Padstow is a superb base for families. There are sandy coves to explore within walking distance, the surf beaches of Padstow Bay are a few minutes away by car or bus, and the flat, traffic-free Camel Trail is ideal for a first family bike ride. On a rainy day, the National Lobster Hatchery on South Quay, the Padstow Museum and the shops and cafés of the town keep everyone busy.

For walkers, the South West Coast Path passes right through the town, heading north to Stepper Point and the cliffs above Trevone, while the ancient Saints’ Way sets off inland from St Petroc’s Church on its cross-country route to Fowey. Out of season, Padstow keeps much of its charm: the harbour is quieter, the restaurants stay open, and in December the town comes alive with the Christmas Festival, the lantern parade and the singing of the Padstow carols.

PADSTOW HARBOUR & THE CAMEL ESTUARY

Padstow has been a port for well over a thousand years, and the harbour is still run by the Padstow Harbour Commissioners. The outer harbour is tidal and used by fishing and commercial vessels, while the inner harbour is a half-tide dock with a gate across its entrance that holds the water in, keeping boats afloat even at low tide. Fishing boats still land crab, lobster and fish on the quays, and the harbour is lined with seafood restaurants, takeaways and stalls.

The mouth of the estuary is guarded by the Doom Bar, a shifting sandbank that has wrecked many ships over the centuries; local legend says it was raised by a mermaid’s curse after she was shot by a Padstow man. The Padstow lifeboat was first stationed here in 1827 and later at Hawker’s Cove near the estuary mouth. In April 1900 the town suffered a terrible loss when the steam lifeboat James Stevens No. 4 capsized on service and eight of her crew were drowned. Since 1967 the lifeboat has been based at Trevose Head, five miles west, where a new boathouse opened in 2006 for the Tamar-class lifeboat Spirit of Padstow.

The Black Tor Ferry carries foot passengers across the estuary to Rock every day, all year round, landing at different points depending on the tide. In summer, boat trips leave the harbour for the open sea and Padstow Bay, where seals, seabirds and sometimes dolphins can be seen. On South Quay, the National Lobster Hatchery, a marine conservation charity opened in 2000, rears baby lobsters for release into the wild and lets visitors follow their life cycle from egg to adult.

The harbour has a long working history. In the 18th and 19th centuries its quays were busy with pilchard curing, shipbuilding yards and coastal trading vessels carrying slate, ore and farm produce out and bringing coal, timber and goods in. Control of the harbour passed to the railway authorities in the 20th century, but in 1964 the Padstow Harbour Commissioners took it back, and today they manage the harbour for fishing boats, commercial vessels and visiting yachts, which can berth in the inner harbour alongside the town.

Beyond the harbour, the Camel estuary is one of the most beautiful stretches of water in Cornwall. At low tide it becomes a world of golden sandbanks and channels, busy with curlews, oystercatchers and little egrets, and its wildlife is protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Special Area of Conservation. Sailing dinghies, paddleboards and kayaks make the most of the sheltered water, but the tide runs fast through the channels and the sandbanks can be cut off quickly, so take local advice before setting out and never swim in the main channel.

THINGS TO DO IN PADSTOW

Padstow is a town to explore slowly, with something to see on every corner of the harbour.

On and beside the water, take the ferry across to Rock for the beaches at Rock and Daymer Bay, join a boat trip into Padstow Bay, or simply sit on the harbour wall and watch the fishing boats come and go. Crabbing from the quay is a favourite with children, and hire boats, sailing and paddleboarding are all available on the estuary in season.

For food lovers, Padstow is hard to beat: fish straight from the boats, Cornish pasties, ice cream, local cheeses and some of Cornwall’s best-known restaurants, from fish and chips on the quay to fine dining. Booking ahead is wise in summer, especially for the evening.

On foot and by bike, the Camel Trail starts at the old railway station by the harbour, while the coast path heads north past St George’s Cove to Stepper Point. Up the hill, Prideaux Place and St Petroc’s Church reveal the town’s long history. Here are some of the best things to do in and around Padstow.

1. Cycle the Camel Trail – hire bikes in town and follow the flat, traffic-free trail beside the estuary to Wadebridge. See below.
2. Take the ferry to Rock – a short crossing to the sands of Rock and Daymer Bay.
3. Visit Prideaux Place – the Elizabethan house of the Prideaux family, with a deer park and gardens. Prideaux Place guide.
4. See the National Lobster Hatchery on South Quay, a marine conservation charity where you can follow a lobster’s life cycle. National Lobster Hatchery guide.
5. Go on a boat trip from the harbour into Padstow Bay to look for seals, seabirds and dolphins.
6. Walk to Stepper Point – follow the coast path past St George’s Cove and Hawker’s Cove to the daymark on Stepper Point. Try our Padstow to Trevone circular walk.
7. Explore St Petroc’s Church – the largely 15th-century parish church on the site of St Petroc’s monastery.
8. Learn to surf at Harlyn, Constantine or Polzeath – see our Polzeath & Padstow Bay surf guide.
9. Go crabbing from the harbour wall – a Padstow tradition for generations of children.
10. Visit the Padstow Museum to learn about the town’s maritime history, lifeboats, railway and May Day.

THE CAMEL TRAIL

The Camel Trail is one of Britain’s most popular leisure trails. It follows the route of old railway lines for about 18 miles from Padstow through Wadebridge and Bodmin to Wenfordbridge, on the edge of Bodmin Moor. Because it was once a railway, it is almost flat all the way, making it ideal for families, beginners and anyone who wants a relaxed day out on two wheels or on foot.

The most popular stretch runs from Padstow to Wadebridge along the edge of the estuary, with wide views across the water, sandbanks full of wading birds and the old iron railway bridge over Little Petherick Creek. Beyond Wadebridge the trail turns inland along the wooded valley of the River Camel to Bodmin and Wenfordbridge, a quieter and shadier ride.

The railway reached Padstow in 1899, bringing the first holidaymakers and, for many years, through carriages from London on the Atlantic Coast Express. Passenger trains ended in 1967, and in 1980 the line was converted into the public path we enjoy today. Bike hire is available beside the trail in both Padstow and Wadebridge – see our Camel Trail guide and Bridge Bike Hire, Wadebridge.

Padstow to Wadebridge – 5.5 miles. This is the classic estuary ride and the busiest part of the trail. Leaving the old station by the harbour, the trail runs along the water’s edge with views across to Rock and the dunes of Brea Hill, then crosses Little Petherick Creek on the old iron railway bridge. Beyond, it passes the quiet inlets of Old Town Cove and Pinkson Creek and a former quarry, now a popular refreshment stop, before arriving in Wadebridge beside its medieval bridge. Most families ride it there and back in a morning or an afternoon, with time for lunch in Wadebridge.

Wadebridge to Bodmin – about 5.75 miles. From Wadebridge the trail leaves the estuary and follows the River Camel inland through a peaceful wooded valley, passing Grogley Halt and the village of Nanstallon, where there are refreshments. At Boscarne Junction it meets the Bodmin & Wenford Railway, the heritage steam line that runs into Bodmin, and a short spur leads to Dunmere and the edge of the town.

Bodmin to Wenfordbridge – about 6.25 miles. The quietest section climbs very gently up the wooded valley of the Camel towards Bodmin Moor, through woodland and past old farms to Wenfordbridge, where there is a small car park, toilets and a café. It is a lovely ride in spring and autumn, when the woods are at their best and the trail is at its quietest.

A railway with a long history. The line between Wadebridge and Wenford was the Bodmin and Wadebridge Railway, opened in 1834 and one of the earliest steam railways in the country. It was built to carry sea sand inland to improve the fields and to bring minerals down to the quay at Wadebridge, and later carried china clay from Wenfordbridge until 1978. The Padstow to Wadebridge stretch was part of the North Cornwall Railway, which reached Padstow in 1899.

Wildlife along the trail. The estuary and the Camel valley are protected as a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a Special Area of Conservation. Look out for little egrets, herons, curlews and other wading birds on the mudflats at low tide, and for kingfishers along the river. Otters, bats and dormice live in the valley, and in early summer the damp meadows are bright with marsh orchids and marsh marigolds. There is an accessible bird hide near Wadebridge.

Who can use it. The trail is largely traffic-free, surfaced and virtually level, so it is suitable for walkers, cyclists, horse riders, pushchairs and wheelchair users. There are access points and car parks at Padstow, Old Town Cove, Wadebridge, Grogley Halt, Dunmere, Scarletts Well near Bodmin, Shell Woods and Wenfordbridge, so it is easy to ride or walk just part of the route. Toilets are at Padstow, Wadebridge and Wenfordbridge.

Tips for a good day. The trail can be very busy in the school holidays, so start early, keep left and ring your bell when passing walkers. Only licensed bike hire businesses can hire bikes for the trail – there are hire centres in Padstow, Wadebridge, Bodmin and Wenfordbridge, many with child seats, trailers and tag-alongs. Check the tide and the weather before you go, as the estuary section is exposed to the wind, and take a picnic for one of the many benches looking out over the water.

HISTORY OF PADSTOW

People have lived around the Camel estuary for thousands of years – an Iron Age cemetery was uncovered at Harlyn Bay in 1900 – and the estuary was an important crossing point for travellers between Ireland, Wales and Brittany, who avoided the dangerous voyage round Land’s End by walking across Cornwall to the south coast. That route is remembered today by the Saints’ Way, a waymarked path from Padstow to Fowey.

According to tradition, the Welsh missionary St Petroc landed nearby around AD 500 and founded a monastery here, and the town became known as Petroc’s stow – “Petroc’s Place” – which became Padstow. Its Cornish name is Lannwedhenek. In 981 the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records that Vikings raided the monastery, and the monks later moved inland to Bodmin, taking the saint’s relics with them. In the Domesday Book of 1086 Padstow was held by the monastery at Bodmin.

Through the Middle Ages and beyond, Padstow grew as a port, trading with Ireland, Wales, Brittany and Bristol. After the Reformation, the Prideaux family acquired the former monastic lands and built Prideaux Place, completed in 1592. Fishing – especially for pilchards – shipbuilding and the export of slate, ore and farm produce kept the harbour busy into the 19th century. The arrival of the railway in 1899 brought the first holidaymakers, and although the line closed in 1967, Padstow has since grown into one of Cornwall’s most popular resorts while remaining a working fishing port.

KEY BUILDINGS IN PADSTOW

• Prideaux Place (completed 1592) – the Elizabethan mansion built by Sir Nicholas Prideaux above the town, remodelled in the 18th century by Edmund Prideaux, with an ancient deer park. Still lived in by the Prideaux family, it is a regular film and television location. Prideaux Place guide.
• St Petroc’s Church – the parish church on the site of St Petroc’s monastery, largely of the 13th to 15th centuries, with memorials to the Prideaux family.
• The Court House, Riverside – a Grade II listed building of late 16th-century origin, with a datestone of 1668. Known locally as Raleigh’s Court House, it is associated with Sir Walter Raleigh, who as Lord Warden of the Stannaries collected dues in Cornwall. It is now private houses.
• Abbey House, North Quay – an old merchant’s house overlooking the harbour, now a private home.
• The Harbour and inner harbour gate – the quays and half-tide dock that make Padstow one of the few safe harbours on the north Cornish coast.
• The Old Railway Station – the terminus of the North Cornwall Railway (1899–1967), now the start of the Camel Trail.

LOCAL EVENTS & THE ’OBBY ’OSS

Padstow’s May Day is one of the oldest and most famous folk festivals in Britain. On May Eve the town is decorated with greenery and flags and the night songs ring through the streets; on 1 May two ’Osses – the Old Oss and the Blue Ribbon Oss – each a dancer in a great black hooped costume with a fearsome mask, whirl through the crowds from morning until late, led by “teasers” and accompanied by drums, accordions and the May Day song. When 1 May falls on a Sunday, the celebrations move to Monday 2 May. The town is extremely busy, so arrive early or come by bus.

• May Day ’Obby ’Oss (1 May, with May Eve the night before).
• Royal Cornwall Show (early June) – Cornwall’s great agricultural show at the showground near Wadebridge.
• Rock Oyster Festival (late July) – food and music across the estuary near Rock.
• Lobster Lollop (November) – a charity run on the Camel Trail in aid of the National Lobster Hatchery.
• Padstow Christmas Festival (early December) – a weekend of chefs’ demonstrations, a Christmas market, a lantern parade and fireworks.
• Padstow carols (December) – the town’s own traditional carols, sung around the streets in the run-up to Christmas.

Dates change from year to year – check our Cornwall events guide for current dates.

PLACES NEAR PADSTOW

• Rock – across the estuary by ferry, a sailing village with sandy beaches and the dunes of Daymer Bay.
• Polzeath – one of Cornwall’s favourite family surf beaches, beside Pentire Point.
• Wadebridge – about 7 miles inland along the Camel Trail, with its medieval bridge and the Royal Cornwall Showground.
• Little Petherick – a pretty village at the head of Little Petherick Creek, two miles south, on the Saints’ Way.
• St Issey & St Merryn – villages on the road west to the beaches of Harlyn, Constantine and Treyarnon.
• Trevose Head – the headland west of Padstow with its lighthouse and the Padstow lifeboat station.
• Port Isaac – the fishing village famous as “Portwenn” in Doc Martin, about 15 miles by road.
• Bodmin – the old county town, with Bodmin Jail and the Bodmin & Wenford Railway, and nearby Lanhydrock (National Trust).